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As winter approaches, it's essential to prepare your sprayer for the colder months ahead. Properly rinsing and winterizing your sprayer not only extends its lifespan but also ensures it will be ready for use when spring arrives. In this guide, we'll walk you through the necessary steps to rinse out your sprayer, protect key components, and prevent freeze damage.

Step-by-Step of How to Properly Winterize a Spray Unit

In order to begin you need to ensure that your entire system has been evacuated of the solution(s) you were spraying with the unit. That means you need to evacuate the pump housing, hoses, strainers, tank(s), spray wands, etc. Start at the tank and run through the entire plumbing system - no component of the system that comes in contact with liquid should be left out of this process. If something is neglected, odds are good that you will have issues when you go to start up next season. Let's avoid that at all costs. Here's how....

Rinsing Your Sprayer

Any system should be thoroughly flushed with clean water. Industry standards recommend a triple rinse. Add one-half tank of fresh water and flush all tanks, lines, booms, nozzles, wands, etc. for no less than fifteen minutes. Do this using a combination of agitation and spraying. Remember that rinsates (the solution you create while flushing your system) do contain residuals from your system. Therefore, any pesticides, herbicides, fungicides, etc. that you were spraying will be flushed from the system out of your orifice(s). Do not allow rinsates to flow into streams, rivers, ponds, lakes, floor drains, sewers, or sinks.

It's best practice to use containment pads such as these to collect rinsates and then apply them to labeled sites at or below labeled rates. If possible, consider rinsing the system at the application site. Furthermore, the product label should specify best rinse practices - always consult the product label. Lastly, proper protective clothing should be worn to avoid chemical contact with any exposed skin.

Remember, many of the chemicals out there are designed to kill living organisms - that means it's not good to get it into your bloodstream. If you do get any product on exposed skin make sure to wash the contaminated area with soap and water immediately, for no less than 15 minutes.

Flush Out Sprayer Components

This is also a good time to clean strainers of any debris that was picked up during the past season. By performing this task you will help ensure that you don't starve your pump and blow out seals when you start up next season. Here is another post on pump cavitation to further explain how detrimental this can be. Sloppy clean-up practices are a main cause of equipment failure or malfunctions. You're here to prevent that and avoid expensive downtime.

You can create a cleaning solution by doing the following:

1. Fill the tank with fresh water and the recommended cleaning solutions or tank cleaner.
2. Agitate this solution for no less than 15 minutes.
3. Add one of the following to 50 gallons of fresh water.
   1. Two quarts of household ammonia (let sit in sprayer overnight for herbicides such as 2,4-D or Dicamba. It's recommended to consult your label for recommended cleaning agents*)
   2. Or add four pounds of trisodium phosphate cleaner detergent. (It's recommended to consult your label for recommended cleaning agents*)
4. Operate spray booms or wands long enough to ensure all lines and orifices are filled with the cleaning solution.
5. Let the solution stand in the system for no less than three hours.
6. Agitate and spray the solution onto suitable areas for rinsate solution.
7. Add more fresh water and rinse the system again by using a combination of agitation and spraying.
8. Remove strainers, screens, regulators, etc. and clean in a separate bucket of your cleaning solution.
9. Rinse and flush the system again with fresh water.

Don't neglect the fact that, any product left in the plumbing system, that is allowed to dry, is much more difficult to remove and will eventually build up enough to plug lines and orifices. Plugged lines and orifices not only decrease the overall efficiency of your plumbing system, but will bring about a slough of other headaches. Always wash down the external portion of the spray unit at the wash site, as well. This helps to remove any external residue that the unit collected via spills or drift.

Making Sprayer & Sprayer Pump Repairs

Next, let's move on to the pump itself. Remove the pump from the drive unit - generally on most skid sprayers this will be a gas engine. It's always best practice to take the pump completely apart BEFORE you order repair parts. For instance, you may order a complete overhaul kit and find that you really only needed to replace some gaskets. We strongly recommend to get the pump opened up and thoroughly inspect it.

Once you have completed this and have drawn up your parts list - only then should you order repair components. We have an extensive parts breakdown file, to help you identify the correct parts you need. In order to use this resource you need to know the manufacturer, pump type, and model number. Click here for access to our Parts Resources. For additional resource videos see below.

Hypro 7560 roller pump Repair Video: 

Hypro D403/AR403 Pump Repair Video:

Prep Sprayer For Storage

If you absolutely need to store your unit outdoors over the winter make sure to remove all hose and any polymer (plastic fittings, connections, etc.) Some companies recommend adding lightweight oil such as diesel fuel or kerosene to a system for off-season storage. We don't recommend this as oil-based products don't like EPDM elastomers. For this reason, we suggest using a 50/50 mix of RV antifreeze and water. We recommend this treatment for your entire plumbing system - whether you store your unit indoors or outdoors.

The reason we recommend this treatment is based on experience. We have had customers store units in temperature-controlled environments, during the off-season, only to have their heat source fail. This resulted in the pump housing cracking due to their own negligence. If they had charged the system with a solution that would not freeze they could have avoided an expensive surprise come spring.

Here is another post on chemical compatibility and how it's worthwhile to perform due diligence. Run this solution throughout the entire plumbing system for a minute or two in order to ensure that your total system is winterized and safe from freezing.

It's also recommended to remove all gauges and store them indoors if possible. Change out your oil if you are running a diaphragm pump unit - this ensures you are ready to rock-n-roll come go-time next spring. Remember, the main reason for failure or malfunction in any spray system is neglect and improper maintenance. Lastly, make sure to replace air/oil filters on your gas engine. Don't forget to add a fuel stabilizer treatment to your engine and run it for a few minutes to ensure the treatment reaches all internals of the engine.

Before You Go

If you can ensure following these steps in your post-season shutdown process we know you will be in much better shape come next season. All of your equipment should be good to go and ready when you - and more importantly - your customers need it to be. Thanks for stopping by and have a great off-season.

Sources:

1. Some of the information in this post was found through The University of Nebraska-Lincoln the Cleaning Pesticide Application Equipment publication from August 2013.
2. Hypro - Pentair

Have you ever encountered a nightmare situation where a hose miraculously turns into an icky, nasty, pasty goop? Or how about a pump that starts leaking from virtually every connection point and fitting? What about a fitting that has a pinhole worn through it after only a few days in service? These are all scenarios we have witnessed and can help prevent. Here's how we are going to get you set up with correctly identifying chemical-compatible products and solutions from the get-go.

Importance of Ensuring the Chemical Compatibility Between Solutions and Product Material Used

It is extremely important when working with any variety of chemicals or solutions that pumps, hoses, fittings and safety items are correctly matched for chemical compatibility. Most manufacturers offer chemical resistance charts for their specific product lines and are readily accessible when required. Check out a thorough chemical compatibility chart from Dura Products in our Resources Library. And if that chart isn't enough here is another resource for you. For the safety of you and your employees, it is critical that a proper analysis is made between the solutions you will be handling and the products used to transfer those solutions.

Product Warranty Issues

Also, most manufacturers will not warranty products for compatibility issues if an analysis was not properly completed - prior to product use. If it is concluded that a specific chemical compatibility issue caused a product to fail or perform there will be, in most scenarios, no warranty granted by the manufacturer. Failure to perform a proper chemical compatibility check prior to solution handling could result in catastrophic failure of your equipment and extensive unnecessary costs due to downtime and repair/replacement of equipment and components.

Common Incompatibility Issues between Product Material and Solutions based on our Experience 

We have seen EPDM hoses turn to mush when used to transfer oil-based products. Similarly, we have witnessed pump elastomers (seals, O-rings, gaskets) completely deteriorate and create an environment where metal is creating friction against metal inside of pumps. Without elastomers inside a pump, it cannot function properly. Furthermore, we have seen PVC fittings completely deteriorate after only one to two weeks in service.

All of these scenarios could have been avoided had the operators approached us beforehand and identified the solutions to be transferred with their initial choices of products. Should you ever have questions about chemical compatibility - don't hesitate to contact us - that's what we are here for.

Common construction materials for pump bodies and housings are Polypropylene, Stainless Steel, Cast Iron, Kynar (PDFV), Brass, Bronze and Aluminum. Materials generally used in constructing pump seals are Viton, EPDM, Buna, Hytrel, Teflon and Santoprene. Common construction materials for fittings and accessories, such as strainers and valves, include Polypropylene, Nylon, Brass, Stainless, Cast Iron and Acetal.

Hoses and tubing are generally constructed of Buna, EPDM, Viton, Teflon, PVC, EVA, Polyethylene or Neoprene. That being said, your specific application could call for a unique material to be used - given the parameters of the solution you are transferring.

Next Steps - Identifying Suitable Product based on Solution

Once we have identified the solution we are transferring we can then determine what products are suitable for the transfer of that solution. Here at Dultmeier Sales we don't guess - we want to do as much as possible to ensure chemical compatibility from the start. If there are ever questions as to what a solution consists of - you should acquire an SDS or Safety Data Sheet. This document was formally known as an MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet).

By acquiring an SDS we are able to see the highest concentration of a substance in a percentage breakdown. It is always best practice to find a product that can safely handle all substances that make up a solution. That being said, that is not possible in every scenario. In those instances, one should identify the top substance(s) and locate a product that is chemically compatible. Safety items such as gloves, aprons, boot covers, and arm covers are commonly offered in Neoprene, Nitrile, Latex, PVC.

The first step for proper handling and transfer is to check both the body and the seals of your pumps for compatibility against any number of chemicals. Remember to consult the SDS of the product(s) you are handling. The pump body may be rated to handle a specific chemical but the seals may not. Also, valves and diaphragms need to be reviewed as does any material that will come in contact with a specific chemical or solution.

If we don't perform this step our operation will most assuredly come to an inevitable halt - due to failure to properly identify chemical compatibility. Another note to be aware of is that if you choose to mix multiple chemicals and transfer with one pump - we cannot definitively say what chemical reactions will take place with your elastomers, hoses, fittings, etc.

When you mix multiple chemicals together you have just altered the chemical makeup of the solution. We recommend avoiding this scenario unless you are certain the products you are mixing are like products.

If the pump construction is compatible, next check against fittings and hose that will be used in the application. We cannot stress this enough - always check compatibility with any and all items that will come in contact with the chemical or solution. As a general rule Kynar and Teflon are used for very aggressive solutions but are at the high end of the cost spectrum.

There are some more economical options in EPDM, Viton, and Buna. EPDM and Viton may work fine for soaps, waxes, and some herbicides and/or pesticides. Do note that Buna is not suitable for many agricultural chemicals, but is compatible with petroleum-based solutions. While EPDM is compatible with many chemicals, it is not suitable for oil-based products - stick with Viton or Buna in those scenarios.

Key Parameters to Consider: Temperature & Pressure

Furthermore, it is important to confirm temperature and pressure as these two variables can also affect compatibility. Temperature and pressure should always be taken into consideration as they can vary with every application or between applications. For instance, a chemical may respond differently to changes or fluctuations in either temperature and/or pressure.

The fluctuations may actually cause the chemical to completely alter its structure and no longer be compatible with elastomers or products that were previously identified as chemically compatible. Long story short, you may be fine transferring and handling a product at ambient temperatures but may find an issue at higher temperatures or pressures.

Remember to check for compatibility with all of the item groups above. Any chemicals or solutions that you may be handling or transferring should always be confirmed with an SDS - if chemical compatibility is in question. Think chemical compatibility first for the safety and protection of yourself and others. Furthermore, we want to ensure greater longevity and performance of your pumps, valves, fittings, and hoses. Request a Free Catalog here.

If you enjoyed this post check out our technical library for more resources. Can't find what you're looking for? Give us a buzz or drop by our website. Be safe out there.

Hypro-Shurflo is actually a subsidiary of Pentair.  Pentair is a parent company that delivers industry-leading products and solutions all over the world, specifically in the liquid handling, thermal management, and equipment protection industries.  The Hypro name has been known and trusted for the last 65 years.

That being said Hypro has a product mix that is focused on higher end capacity flow applications.  Hypro was also the first company to come out with piston pumps originally used in the carwash industry.  The old dinosaur pumps of the early 1970s have evolved into the plunger and piston pumps of today's market.  Hypro is also largely relevant within the Agricultural industry.  Sprayer pumps, transfer pumps, spray nozzles, strainers, fittings, and much more can all be found with the Hypro name stamped on them.

Recently, Hypro has come out with their ForceField pumps to help combat seal failure in centrifugal sprayer pumps.  It is designed with the mindset of a maintenance-free wet seal chamber.  The wet seal chamber is self-regulating and does not require the operator to monitor the pressure to ensure the pump seal is constantly engulfed in the lubricating fluid.  Hypro boasts the self-regulating and monitor-free design over competitors such as Ace Pumps and their Oasis wet seal design.

One must always keep in mind that it is extremely crucial to have proper ventilation - IN ANY tank that holds liquid. A tank vent may seem like a small component of the system, but it is absolutely necessary. If there is a pump attached to the tank and that pump is drawing suction from said tank, it is imperative to properly vent the tank.

Without proper ventilation one can turn a rail car - as seen in the video above - into a pop can. Do note, that tank above is a standard liquid transport rail car and weighs approximately 68,000lbs (34 tons) with a minimum wall thickness of 7/16IN plated steel. Bottom line - make sure you have a tank vent installed in any tank you use.

Even in the smallest of tank applications, it is absolutely prudent to install a vent in every tank. We have seen many applications over the years where a turf applicator, using a small 50-100 gallon tank, did not properly vent their tank and collapsed the sidewalls by using a small transfer pump. A vacuum can be created rather quickly in many plumbing situations.

Another example is commonly found in the retail fertilizer industry. Many companies will pull from 275 gallon cage totes with concentrated chemical and dispense into smaller containers or mix with other products. If these polyethylene tanks do not have a tank vent and are, therefore, not vented properly, they too will collapse.

This does not only happen in transfer tank scenarios. There are many applications in which actual bulk storage tanks have collapsed due to the creation of a vacuum in the plumbing system. When a pump is starved of liquid, it will begin to cavitate. We will have a future post on what pump cavitation is and how to avoid it. In larger bulk tank storage scenarios we have seen tank vents become clogged up with dirt, debris, bugs, etc. This happens from simply being exposed to the environment. The inspection of ALL tank vents should be written into any annual or bi-annual safety inspection protocol.

With ever-increasing OSHA regulations, this task could be difficult to accomplish without repercussions. OSHA does not want employees on top of storage or transfer tanks for obvious safety reasons. Should they find a company employee on top of tanks, potential fines could be imposed. That being said, if no one is inspecting tank vents how do we prevent tank collapses from happening more often?

Below are a couple of images of bulk tanks that were sucked in or "collapsed" due to pump cavitation. The cavitation was so great that it essentially created a full vacuum and collapsed the tank walls. A tank collapses because a complete vacuum has been created in the plumbing system and, due to the tank having the largest surface area, it is generally one of the weaker points in the plumbing system; relatively speaking.

A vacuum is the absence of pressure. If there is no pressure internally, there is no force to combat atmospheric pressure. There is and always will be a constant force (atmospheric pressure) acting on the exterior of the tank walls. Atmospheric pressure is 14.7 pounds per square inch. When a full vacuum is created there is no internal pressure in the tank to combat atmospheric pressure (external force) and the result is evident in the video above.

In smaller applications, such as a spot sprayer or small acreage spray unit, a basic vented lid cap can be used to avoid tank collapse. Do note, that the user will see some slosh or spillage come out of the vent. This is normal as the vent is doing what it is intended to do - allowing the tank to exhaust internal pressure and "breathe". Even in small tank applications like this spot sprayer, it's critical to have a vent. Many solutions will tend to vaporize as they warm up. This causes an expansion due to added volume that the vapor creates. Without a vent, an end user will notice a swelling in even the smallest of tanks.

Many smaller vent caps are simplistic and just have an internal spring. The spring acts as a relief valve and exhausts the pressure in the tank. Furthermore, the vent allows air to enter the tank, as well - it's a bidirectional valve.

Therefore, when pressure builds in the tank - due to product heating up, expanding, or vaporizing - the tank valve allows that pressure to be released or exhausted. Thus, a vent can work in two different ways.

First, it helps a tank from collapsing in on itself if a vacuum is created in the plumbing system. As seen in large tank pictures above, we can do the same thing to smaller tanks if we create a vacuum in the plumbing system. Secondly, the vent allows a tank to breath outward if the liquid inside the tank begins to vaporize - when a liquid vaporizes and turns into a gas it actually takes up more space. This can be seen with a small plastic gas tank if left out in the sun. While a tank can collapse inward it can also rupture outward.

The bottom line, key takeaway from this discussion topic - always use a tank vent valve to ensure that your tank remains in service and you don't have a major mess on your hands. If you have further questions don't hesitate to give us a shout. Your Experts in Delivering Fluid Handling Solutions - We Know Flow!

The fall/spring application of the fertilizer Anhydrous Ammonia, also known as NH3, is always a hectic time for those in the agricultural industry. The race to get the precious fertilizer in the ground is fast-paced and everyone is running like gangbusters. Every season fall/spring we field phone calls that stem from concern due to the reliability and service of ammonia hoses.

This post should clear up many questions and will provide some valuable education to you and your team. Below you will find a listing of common questions we run across throughout a season. As always, we are happy to help share our wealth of technical knowledge and experience.

Common Anhydrous (NH3) Hose Questions

Residue on NH3 Hose Exteriors

Question: At times a residue forms rings or cones all over the cover of my anhydrous ammonia hose. This residue resembles or looks like white spots.

What causes this residue to appear and what is it?

Answer: Anhydrous ammonia hoses are designed to allow a small amount of gas through the wall of the hose. This is known as pinpricking and it is a safety requirement. This allows trace amounts of NH3, to permeate through the tube. The pinpricks allow minute amounts of anhydrous ammonia to easily escape into the atmosphere through the hose cover. There is such a trace amount of anhydrous ammonia being released that it is not harmful.

A hose that has been improperly pricked will cause the cover to blister and eventually blow out - this is the same for a hose that has not been pricked at all. A hose blows out when NH3 becomes trapped between the layers in the hose, heats up, and vaporizes - thus causing rapid expansion and bursting through the hose cover.

The single drawback to pin pricking is the residue that is left on the hose and the resulting appearance that the hose is somehow defective, after use. Remember, as the anhydrous ammonia escapes through the pinpricks it comes in contact with the atmosphere and forms the white residue that many operators commonly see throughout the season. The color and consistency of the residue are affected by the amount of dust and relative humidity present in the atmosphere.

This residue does not indicate a defective hose and in no way should be viewed as a problem or unsafe situation for operators. Furthermore, it is a reminder of this built-in safety feature of the anhydrous ammonia hose and that it is, in fact, working as intended.

NH3 Hose Basketing

Question: My stainless steel braided anhydrous ammonia hose has ballooned out behind the coupling.

Why is this happening?

Answer: The symptom described above is referred to as "basketing". Basketing is the result of the thermal expansion of trapped anhydrous ammonia in the hose. By design, the hose is intended to expand in a controlled fashion when this over-pressurization occurs. Most commonly, a user will see basketing form behind the coupling - this intended consequence is meant to keep the NH3 hose from a catastrophic blowout.

Thermal expansion generally occurs when anhydrous ammonia remains or leaks out of a shut-in hose assembly and is allowed to heat up or "cook" in the sun. Extremely high pressures occur, internally, as the black hose is exposed to sunlight for extended periods.

It is highly recommended that all hose assemblies be emptied before storage and downstream valves are checked for compliance and acceptable operation regularly. Furthermore, hydrostatic relief valves should also be checked for correct operation and compliance pressures depending on state and local fire marshal requirements.

Anhydrous Ammonia Expected Service Life

Question: What is the expected service life of an anhydrous ammonia hose? 

Answer: Factory-assembled NH3 hose assemblies come in three variations that each have a different service life. Each type is labeled with a removal date. Here is the life span for the different ammonia hose assemblies that we carry at Dultmeier:

Goodall New Hose Expected Service Life - When Coupled by Authorized Goodall Locations:

N1446 - Super Long Life - 10 Year

N2595 - Rifleman - 8 Year

Park New Hose Assemblies Expected Service Life - When Coupled by Authorized Parker Locations:

7262 Green Stripe - 6 Year 

Maintenance and Care of Anhydrous Ammonia Hose

Recommended Anhydrous Ammonia hose maintenance and care instructions:

New Hose

1. Ensure you have the correct hose. All Anhydrous Ammonia (NH3) hose will be strip branded, stating that the hose is for Anhydrous Ammonia, the working pressure, the name of the manufacturer, and the month and year the hose was made.
2. Make sure the couplings are properly put on. After the hose is charged with anhydrous ammonia, check that the couplings are secure and that they have not moved.
3. Ensure that the new hose is free from cuts, gouges, and imperfections. Perform a visual check of each hose in service. Run your hand down the length of the anhydrous ammonia hose, checking for soft spots.
4. Never secure the coupling in a vise when attaching valves.
5. Goodall highly recommends that all relief valves be replaced at the same time a new hose is installed.
6. If any of the above imperfections are found to be existent, remove the hose from service immediately.

Used Hose

An anhydrous ammonia hose that is currently in service or has been carried over from the previous year:

1. Applicators should remove anhydrous ammonia hoses from the nurse tank(s) before winter and store in a cool, dry place. Keep away from direct heat and any motors that are operating. The best place to store an anhydrous ammonia hose is to hang the hose in a vertical position from the shoulder of the coupling. By doing this one relieves stress on the hose. The hose will be out of the way so as not to be damaged by individuals walking on it, trucks driving over it, or anything being piled on top of it. Furthermore, the storage of anhydrous ammonia hoses indoors prevents damaging UV rays from the sun ruining the hose.
2. NH3 hoses should be checked in the spring in the same manner as a new hose is inspected - this way the user ensures that an Anhydrous Ammonia hose is, in fact, an Anhydrous Ammonia hose.
3. Each hose should be checked at least daily, if not each time the hose is used, to ensure proper function. Make sure to check for movement of couplings, cuts, gouges, or cracks in the cover. Check for any soft spots - this is done by running your hand down the entire length of the hose.
4. Should any of the above imperfections in an anhydrous ammonia hose be found, immediately remove the hose from service.

Always remember - visual and manual inspections SHOULD BE DONE DAILY.

Don't hesitate to contact us should you have any questions. Be safe out there...

A common misconception with any pump, for that matter, is that the flow rating of the pump is the output that a user will see - regardless of the plumbing system that the pump is installed into. For further explanation check out one of our previous blog posts about centrifugal pump sizing, applications and how a plumbing system affects pumps differently.

While most 12 Volt fuel pumps are not centrifugal pumps the flow rates of these pumps is still drastically affected by the plumbing systems in which they are introduced into. Think of it this way - while your car speedometer maxes out at 160 mph you certainly can't drive the vehicle that fast - at least for an extended period of time without catastrophic failure. A pump is very much the same - while it may be rated to 25 gallons per minute (GPM) that doesn't mean that you will see flow rates equivalent to that output.

One solution to decrease filling times is to evaluate your plumbing system. Do you have 3/4IN lines? Can you bump up to 1IN? Remember, the greatest thing we can do in order to increase the efficiency of our plumbing system is to increase the size of the plumbing system. How about a high flow fuel nozzle?

If we simply have a standard flow nozzle that will certainly affect your flow rates in a negative manner. Keep in mind that many 12 Volt transfer fuel pumps from manufacturers such as Fill-Rite or GPI are rated 20-25 gpm. Now if you have nozzle at the end of your plumbing system that is rated only to 20 gpm don't think that your 25 gpm pump is going to achieve that flow rate. You have just capped your flow rate at 20 gpm with the limiting factor being the nozzle.

Should you have a 3/4IN line you will see an even greater reduction in flow rates - again the greatest thing one can do to increase the efficiency of a plumbing system is increase the size of the plumbing. Another major plumbing constraint to be aware of is the filter. Ensure your plumbing system has a high flow capacity filter such as Cimtek's CI1000.

What can one do to drastically reduce filling time in the field or at the farmstead? Invest in a high flow transfer unit such as our DUFPU1.5P. This unit has been tested to 60 gpm. Check out another blog post dedicated to this unit here. This can cut your fill times by 1/3 of the time it takes to fill using a standard 12 Volt pump or gravity feed elevated tank.

Simple fact - that means less downtime for you and more time in the field - ultimately equating to greater profitability. For those wanting a simplistic engine driven diesel fuel transfer pump check out these 5.5HP - 11HP options. Remember we can go slightly lighter on the horsepower requirements when pumping a material such as diesel fuel.

This is due to the fact that diesel fuel actually has a lighter specific gravity than water (8.34 lbs/gal) and, therefore, we can use less horsepower to achieve the desired flow rates. We will have a blog post on specific gravity and how that correlates to product flow rates at a later date. Stay tuned...

Low water hardness and low TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) are critical for proper cleaning and reduction of water spotting in car and truck wash applications. Water hardness is measured in grains of hardness. Typical drinking water can range from 100-250 grains of hardness. However, water hardness under 5 grains is usually best for the most efficient use of detergents or soaps in vehicle cleaning.

A water softener is usually required to get hardness down to zero grains which is necessary to, in turn, get TDS down to zero. The size of the softener required is a function of the quality of the incoming water, as well as, the gallons required in a typical day for a specific facility. Left untreated, high mineral content in a plumbing system can tremendously affect the efficiency of the plumbing system, as well as, reduce the life of pumps, valves, and other equipment.

TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) is the makeup of minerals, salts, metals, etc. that are present in a volume of water. This can include any inorganic element that is present in water other than pure (H20) water molecules. Typically TDS is measured in PPM, (Parts per million). The EPA allows up to 500 PPM for human consumption in water but vehicle washes need to be in the range of 0-50 PPM to rinse and dry without spotting.

Therefore; typical reverse osmosis, spot free rinse vehicle system will produce zero parts per million (PPM) of TDS when the filter/membranes in the system are new. Thin-film Composite or Cellulose Acetate membranes are designed to reduce zero grain water to zero TDS water. As membranes provide the filtering process over time, they will begin to plug or foul. The amount of time for this to occur depends on water usage and flow.

Typical testing will show TDS increasing, with spotting occurring about 40PPM. At this point, membranes should be replaced which will bring the TDS back to zero and the process begins again. Membrane material differs and is specifically designed for tap water, brackish water and seawater. Tap water membranes are used with typical city supplied water.

There are many simple devices available to test for water hardness and TDS to ensure your softeners, spot-free rinse system and filters are operating properly and efficiently. If you have further questions about reducing the amount of total dissolved solids in your business plumbing system give us a call at 1-888-677-5054 or visit us here. Take care!

Ever wondered why some anhydrous nurse tanks empty faster than others, or why your flow rates seem to fluctuate without warning? The secret lies in understanding the nuances of liquid withdrawal tank valves and the plumbing from nurse trailer to the tool bar affects the flow of anhydrous ammonia. In this post, we'll uncover the factors that alter these flow rates and reveal tips that can help you boost your efficiency.

Understanding Characteristics of Anhydrous Ammonia

Anhydrous Ammonia or more commonly known as Nh3 is a common fertilizer that provides a wonderful supply of Nitrogen to crops. First and foremost, let's get some basics down on this fertilizer. In its natural state, Nh3 is a gas. When pressurized, the anhydrous ammonia converts to liquid form. By pressurizing a vessel such as a nurse tank we can transport the nitrogen rich fertilizer from a bulk storage facility to the field. Because anhydrous ammonia is a gas, in its natural state, it wants to return to that state. Therefore, any pressure drop in a plumbing system allows the liquid to vaporize.

Once Nh3 vaporizes the plumbing system becomes exponentially less efficient and, therefore, you as an applicator become less efficient. Bottom line - if you have a poor or inefficient plumbing system you will spend more time in the field. Because you have to run your tractor at slower speeds in order to apply the same amount of Nh3. The longer we are able to keep the anhydrous ammonia in liquid form, the less product we lose to the atmosphere as it exits a knife orifice.

Testing Nurse Tank Valves

Now that we have covered a little background information on Nh3 let's discuss liquid withdrawal nurse tank valves. Nurse tank valves may be rated the same, but they are NOT built the same. Take it from Judd Stretcher with Continental Nh3 Products. Judd insists on nothing but top notch quality for the products that Continental turns out. If you could achieve 20% greater tractor speeds by simply changing out your nurse tank valves, would you? Let's look at a scenario from a recent field test that Continental Nh3 Products performed.

Continental lined up their B-1206E, B1206-F, A1406-F, A1406-FBV and A1507-F against some of the top names in industry. What Continental found was staggering. Through standard plumbing equipment, 1-1/4" hose, break away and 1-3/4" acme fittings and a single Continental 30GPM Heat Exchanger Judd was able to prove that quality and efficiency really do pay off.

NH3 Withdrawl Valve Flow Ratings Explained

Before we continue, let's clarify the ratings on valves. If a liquid withdrawal valve is rated to 42 gallons per minute (GPM), like the B-1206-E or F you MUST understand that this is not the product flow rate of the valve. A valve "rating" in the Nh3 world actually identifies the flow rate at which the excess flow check will engage. This is another safety feature mandated in the anhydrous ammonia world. A valve rated to 42 GPM will close and not allow product to flow from the nurse vessel if the flow rate EXCEEDS 42 GPM.

This is designed to protect the operator if there is a catastrophic release - such as a hose failure. The nurse vessel will remain sealed due to the excess flow check. By having this excess flow check in place we don't allow the tank to completely evacuate - thus protecting the operator. So, a valve that is rated to 42 GPM, by industry standards, will actually flow around 24 GPM of product through standard plumbing equipment listed above. In regards to this specific field test, we are concerned with product flow rates.

Continental was able to find that their valves actually outperformed the competition by 10-20 percent. Their valves are able to achieve this due to design and quality. Even a one to two PSI drop at the nurse tank valve can allow for a drastic expansion of product which then allows the Nh3 to vaporize.

The more vapor you put into a heat exchanger the less efficient the heat exchanger, or cooler, is and that ultimately leads to less product going in the ground. Which finally boils down to you spending more time in the field. I will ask the question again, if you can increase your tractor speed by 10-20%, because you have improved the efficiency of your plumbing system, would you?

Money in Your Pocket

Let's look at a basic calculation for Nh3 application: If you are applying 200lbs/acre of Nh3 running 5 mph across a tool bar 55 feet wide you will need a system that can flow 27 GPM as you will be applying 1620 gallons per hour. So if the price of anhydrous ammonia is projected to retail for $350/ton in eastern Nebraska this fall. An application rate of 27 GPM. Means that you are spending $1560/hr (math calculations below). You could theoretically save $312/hr from increasing your plumbing efficiency by 20%. And that, you can take to the bank - calculate that over a 10 hour day and you're looking at savings of roughly $3,118/day. Put that number across an entire season and think what you could do with those savings! If you have further questions check us out at here or give us a shout at 1-800-228-9666.

Math Calculations:

8910lbs/2000lbs = 4.455 tons*$350 = $1559.25/hr - total expenditure on Nh3/hr

(Nh3 weighs 5.5lbs/gal so 1620 gallons = 8910lbs; then 8910lbs * .20 = 1782lbs/hr saved which = $312/hr.

*At the time of writing this Nh3 projections for fall in eastern Nebraska are around $350 retail. Nationwide average is approximately $300/ton.

If you found this post useful feel free to share with friends, family, and colleagues. We are here to help and share our knowledge. If you have further questions don't hesitate to contact us. Thanks for stopping by and take care!

Properly sizing a centrifugal pump is a crucial step in any plumbing system. There are some important variables and qualifiers you need to first identify in order to ensure that your plumbing system(s) reaches the desired output flow rates. Centrifugal pumps fall into a category of their own and need to be sized for various applications in a different manner than other pump families. In this post you will learn some basic steps to help you properly size a centrifugal pump for your application.

The Basics

Many pump users mistakenly think that a centrifugal pump will provide its maximum published flow rate in all applications.

However, unlike positive displacement pumps (gear, roller, diaphragm and others), the flow rate from a centrifugal pump will vary significantly depending upon the details of the suction and discharge piping and other "head losses" in the user's system (restrictions to flow such as elbows, tees, reducers, strainers, meters, valves, etc) and the vertical rise (or drop) from the supply source to the discharge point.

Total Static Head

The total vertical rise in the system is commonly referred to as Total Static Head. Total Static Head consists of both Static Suction Head and Static Discharge Head, and each of these can be positive or negative, depending if the supply source and discharge point are located above or below the pump elevation. Also note that some systems have a pressurized supply and/or discharge point (pressure vessel or pressurized pipe); these will also add to the Total Static Head.

Once calculated, static head doesn't change for a system - unless a plumbing change is made.

If that sounded a little technical it's because it is! Long story short - your centrifugal pump doesn't dictate your flow rate - your plumbing system does.

Think of it this way - the speedometer on your car may say 160mph, but is your car capable of that speed? What if you put on larger mud tires or constrict the exhaust? The car certainly will not reach 160mph - and a centrifugal pump operates under this same premise. Now, back to today's lesson:

Total Dynamic Head

In addition, each system has a Total Dynamic Head (TDH) which is the sum of head losses due to friction through each foot of pipe, all fittings, valves, meters, strainers, etc. The reason these frictional head losses are called "dynamic" is that they vary with the flow rate moving through the system. As the desired flow rate goes up, the Total Dynamic Head goes up, and usually quite quickly.

The Total Head in a pumping/piping system is the sum of Total Static Head and Total Dynamic Head. A "System Curve" can be computed, for a variety of desired flow rates, and plotted against the particular "Pump Curve". The Centrifugal Pump Curve is published by the pump manufacturer.

The "Operating Point" (Gallons Per Minute Flow rate) of the pump, in a particular system, is at the intersection of the Centrifugal Pump Curve and the Plumbing System Curve.

If this sounds complicated, do not be concerned. Dultmeier Sales has experienced engineers on staff, along with pump flow computer programs, to properly compute and size centrifugal pumps for your applications.

Simply give our engineering department a call with your flow rate requirements and some basic details on your piping system, and we will properly size your centrifugal pump to meet your requirements. You may wish to check out our Technical Library, as well. Let us know if there is any other way we can be of service.

Have you ever wondered how to quickly and accurately solve the problem of correctly sizing the horsepower for a pumping application? In this post we offer a short lesson in yet another technical application that our Sales Team deals with on a daily basis. We practice the principle of horsepower sizing almost every day at Dultmeier Sales.

In order to correctly size the horsepower for an application one must perform the following equation(s) in order to calculate. For positive displacement pumps we use the output pressure & flow rate required to determine the required horsepower. Centrifugal pump horsepower sizing is calculated using different methodology. We will elaborate on centrifugal pumps later in this post.

For positive displacement pumps, such as plunger, piston, diaphragm, or roller pumps we want to take the pressure (psi) x flow rate (gpm) divided by the constant for the particular type of pump, (which is based on the general efficiency of the pump type).

Determine the Type of Pump & Drive Option

For Piston and Plunger pumps, the constant factor is 1460. Roller pumps we use 1030. Lastly, Diaphragm pumps we use a factor of 1370. These constant factors are used for pumping water solutions - if we get heavier or more viscous solutions than water - our factors will need to be altered.

Centrifugal and Gear pumps can vary greatly and must be engineered to the specific application. That being said, we can look at some examples further down the line in this post.

We also need to consider the type of drive option that will be used. For instance, when using an electric motor versus a gas or diesel engine, there are varying drive constant factors, as well. More on this below in the post.

Horsepower Sizing Examples Explained

Example 1: Plunger pump rated flow is 4 gpm at 2000 psi. "EBH" or Electric Brake Horsepower required would be 4 x 2000 = 8000 divided by 1460 = 5.48. This equation shows us that we would require an electric motor with at least 5.48 horse power output to allow the pump to operate at peak performance. In this instance you would most likely need to use a 7-1/2 HP electric motor as most motor brands are generally 1HP, 1.5HP, 2HP, 3HP, 5HP, 7.5HP, 10HP, 15HP, 20HP, 25HP, etc.

It is important to note that electric motors have a rated horsepower and your specific application will have a required horsepower. Required specifies the horsepower needed to produce the desired output flow and pressure. While, rated horsepower defines the horsepower at which the motor is rated. For instance, if the application requires a 13 HP motor, one would need to select a motor that is rated for 15 HP (there is not an electric motor rated for 13 HP or 14 HP). Best practice is to select a motor that has a rated horsepower which exceeds your required application horsepower.

Example 2: Diaphragm pump rated flow is 12 gpm at 500 psi. The EBH would be calculated as such: 12 x 500 = 6000 divided by 1370 = 4.38 This would require an electric motor with at least 4.38 horsepower output to allow this pump to operate at peak performance.

Specialty Applications - Diesel Transfer Horse Power Sizing

For calculating gas or diesel engine horsepower requirements, a general rule is to take EBH required x 2.0. Example 1 above would require 5.48 EBH x 2. 0 = 10.96 engine horsepower requirement. Therefore you would need a gas or diesel engine that will develop at least 10.96 horsepower to allow the pump to operate at peak performance.

You can look at some diesel transfer units (centrifugal pump) that we have sized specifically for flow rates at the nozzle. We have multiple offerings that are designed to produce flow rates through a plumbing system. When calculating, we figure in the Total Dynamic Head of the plumbing system. In the case of our Diesel Transfer Skids, that means the pressure loss through the hose reel, 32ft of hose (inside diameter varies based upon specific unit) and a discharge nozzle. We use a self-priming centrifugal pump in these skid systems. When dealing with self-primer centrifugal pumps a safe efficiency factor to use is 50% efficiency.

When using gas or diesel engines to power pumps, depending on specific brands, "engine" horsepower requirements could be reduced slightly in some instances. For instance, some engines may have a higher compression or provide more torque as a result of enhance production practices. This is generally a smaller factor but something to consider when powering a pump with an engine.

Centrifugal Pump Horsepower Sizing

A major difference in sizing centrifugal pumps lies in the size, or trim, of the impeller. Based upon the solution, desired flow rates, and TDH in the plumbing system - we will size a pump to have a certain impeller trim and this directly correlates to the required horse power.

Generally speaking, we use pump curves to assist in sizing a centrifugal pump for a specific application. A pump will ALWAYS operate on it's curve. That's why it is vital to accurately determine our desired output flow rate, TDH, and solution being transferred. All of these factors, and actually many more like temperature and viscosity can, and will, affect the required horse power and impeller size of a centrifugal pump.

We have multiple tools at our disposal to assist with this process. One of them comes from a supplier of ours, Wilo. Dultmeier Sales' expertise paired with the expertise of Wilo helps us to provide a value-added service for our customers in pump/motor sizing for many applications.

Standard Efficient vs. Premium Efficient Electric Motors

Another important note to make is the difference between a standard efficient motor and a premium efficient motor. With the passing of Department of Energy regulations in January 2020 - many pumps (specifically straight centrifugal pumps) are now held to a certain degree of efficiency standards. The main goal being power consumption. Premium efficient motors are designed to be just that...much more efficient than a standard efficient motor.

Many pump manufacturers have since, or are in the process of switching, to premium efficient motors to assist in ensuring their pump products meet the mandated efficiency standards. Some manufacturers were able to re-engineer their pumps to meet the regulations - while others needed to redesign the pumps and upgrade to premium efficient motors.

Be aware, in some larger NEMA frame motors, the premium efficient option can boast a larger footprint. If your motor footprints do not match, this could cause an issue when you go to install the replacement motor. This is an important thing to consider when replacing standard efficient motors.

Service Factor in Electric Motors

Lastly, we want to consider the service factor in an electric motor of choice. A common service factor that many motor manufacturers use is 1.15. This means if your horsepower is rated to 20 HP then you actually have some leeway to go slightly beyond the rating - if necessary. 20 HP x 1.15 Service Factor = 23 HP. If our application had a required horsepower of 22.25 HP we could select this example motor with a service factor of 1.15.

While it's certainly not advised to select the example 20 HP motor in this instance - it could work. We would always caution on the side of error and advise the end user to select a rated 25 HP motor.

We certainly hope that this post provided useful content. As always, should you have any questions about pump sizing - don't hesitate to call us at 888-677-5054. Be good out there.